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Home > Interior Accessories > Gauges > Autometer Pro-Comp Series Pedestal Mount Tachometer > AM-5610 - Autometer Pro-Comp Series Pedestal Mount Tachometer
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Order Notes:
1: Operates on 4,6 or 8 Cylinder engines with points, electronic and most 12 Volt high performance racing ignitions 2: Two-Stage Shift-Lite 3: Operates on external coil magnetos such as Mallory Super Mag or Vertex OXC 4: Operates on internal coil magnetos such as Vertex OAC 5: Includes probe. Fabrication is required. Modifications to balancer or flywheel are required 6: Must use suppression core spark plug wires, will not work with solid core wires
The Autometer Pro-Comp Series Pedestal Mount Tachometer is the most recognized tach in the industry. They come in two sizes the 3 3/4" face and the monster 5" face. They feature Autometer’s exclusive dial in exactness to ensure super accurate Shift Lite operation. The advanced air-core movement ensures precision movement and extreme accuracy in any race environment. The revolutionary dual range dial design available on some models expands the critical high RPM range for enhanced viewing. The bright red pointer is highly visible under the most extreme racing conditions for quick glance monitoring. The Memory/ Peak recall feature available on most models provides a second look at the highest RPM achieved during a pass or series of laps. The adjustable pedestal mount bracket and the advanced Pro-Comp
What does the instruction mean by 1 and 2 pulse calibration?
You can consider our tachometers to be frequency counters, counting pulses from the ignition coil. Different bikes will produce different numbers of coil pulses per revolution of the crankshaft. Here are some general rules: American V-twins will almost always be 1-pulse regardless if the ignition is referred to as dual or single fire. Some Japanese V-twins may be 1/2-pulse, requiring special factory calibration. An example of this is the Honda VTX. Many Japanese multi-cylinder bikes with dual coils will be 2-pulse. Some newer bikes have a coil on-plug ignition. Give us a call for specifics if you have one of these, or use the Contact Us link a click and send us an email. My Tach Doesn’t Go To Zero On Power Up? Your Auto Meter tachometer should go to Zero when powered on with the engine off. *See Shift-Lite Tach exceptions below. Please keep in mind that the tachometer does not necessarily go to, or stay at Zero when the power is off. If it does not go to zero with power on, engine off, please verify your power and ground connections and available voltage. If the problem persists, visit the Ask A Question or Contact Us pages to communicate with a Tech Department representative. *Some shift light equipped tachometers will only go to Zero momentarily. The pointer will then indicate the shift light RPM trigger point. Other shift light equipped models will act or perform like the non-shift light equipped models. If you are unsure which type of shift light tachometer you have, please call 7 Days a Week 1-877-216-5446 or email cs@realtruck.com My Tach Won't Light Up? 1.) Check the power to the White (illumination) wire. This is your power input to the light and the amount of power will vary depending on how and where you have it hooked up. The lower the power, the dimmer the light and the higher the power, the brighter the light. A common range is from 6 to 14 volts. 2.) If your tach features LED lighting such as Cobalt, C2, or NV models, and you have confirmed power to the White (illumination) wire, please visit the Ask A Question or Contact Us pages to communicate with our Tech Department. 3.) If your tach uses a replaceable incandescent bulb (check your instructions), inspect the filament of the bulb and replace as necessary. Very few of our tachometers use an incandescent bulb that is not consumer replaceable. If you believe you have one of these units, please visit the Ask A Question or Contact Us pages to inquire about having the bulb replaced. My Tach Shift-Lite Doesn’t Turn Off? This situation can be caused by a short in the external shift light wiring. Check your wiring for exposed wires or connections, and repair as necessary. If you have questions please call 7 Days a Week 1-877-216-5446 or email cs@realtruck.com My Tach Registers/Shows the Wrong RPM? The causes of this type of problem can vary. We recommend that you check the following before contacting our Tech Department: 1.) Our tachometers come pre-set from the factory as 8 cylinder. Has the tachometer been properly adjusted/calibrated for your application? 2.) An insufficient power or ground will cause a tachometer to actually read too high. If you are experiencing this problem, perform the following: Using a voltmeter (not a test light), measure across the Red wire and Black wire coming from the tachometer while the engine is running. DO NOT USE AN ALTERNATE GROUND! By doing this, you will be looking at what the tachometer sees for power and ground, combined. If you measure below 12.0 volts, identify which connection is the problem, and correct it. 3.) If you find that your tachometer is off by a very small amount (such as 2 to 400 rpm), consider what you are comparing it to. Many factory tachometers are slow to respond due to heavy dampening used for smoothing pointer operation. 4.) If you are using something other that a 4, 6, or 8 cylinder application then make the tachometer you chose is correct for your application. If after checking these items, you feel that your Auto Meter tachometer is still off calibration, please call 7 Days a Week 1-877-216-5446 or email cs@realtruck.com Why doesn't my tach pointer rest at zero when the ignition is off? We get a lot of questions about this. Here is the reason, along with some specifics for each product. Most of the electric instruments that we offer use what is called an air core meter. In layman's terms, this means there is no physical part to hold the pointer where it sits, or to force it back to zero when power is removed. It uses an electrical charge to return to zero when power is applied, and when a signal is fed to the instrument, the pointer will indicate the proper reading. This is normal, and no cause for alarm. The unit is not damaged or broken, it just doesn't look like most other instruments out there. For Example: The pointers, on most modern OE (original equipment) gauges, just hang there when power is removed. We use air core movement due to its rapid response characteristics, so when you stomp on the accelerator, the pointer is capable of showing you exact engine RPM. On some other gauges, such as the pyrometers or EGT gauges, sit off zero, too. But, even after you connect them and turn the power on, the pointer still doesn't go back to zero. What gives? Well, provided the gauge is connected to its probe, it will show the ambient air temperature. So, unless it is zero degrees F outside, it will not read zero. For example, if your vehicle has sat for a long period of time (allowing the engine to completely cool) the gauge will accurately reflect the outdoor temperature when power is applied. If the outdoor temperature is 70 degrees, the gauge will read 70 degress. What Are These Colored Wires On My Tach For? • Red = key on power supply • Black = common chassis ground • White = dash lighting power • Green = tachometer signal for standard or electronic ignitions • Yellow = used only on Internal Coil Magneto tachometers as the signal wire • Twin Black = (looks like a lamp cord) is used on External Coil Magneto tachometers that use an inductive pick up (#5210) • Gray = for tachometers that use a Hi/Lo shift light. When grounded, Lo shift light point is active. When ungrounded, Hi shift light point is active. • Blue = used on Playback tachometers to start recording (see playback tachometer instructions) My Tach Shift-Lite Doesn't Turn On? 1.) If your tachometer is equipped with a externally mounted shift light, make sure that the shift light cord is fully plugged in. Thet are usually shipped unplugged when new. 2.) If your shift light turns on for 1 second when the power is applied, then it passed the bulb check. Next check you shift light set point per the instruction for your tachometer. 3.) If the tachometer does not light for the 1 second bulb check, then access the shift light bulb and check the bulb filament. Your shift light has a replaceable bulb, if the bulb is bad, replace as needed. If the filament is good, check the power to the shift light with a standard automotive 12 volt test light. The two wires or contacts for the shift light will typically both show power until the light is commanded to turn on. One of those wires displaying power will turn into ground to illuminate the light when the trigger condition has been reached. My Tach Pointer is Erratic/Jumpy? 1.) Is your tach pointer jumpy only at idle? This may be due to a 4 cylinder 1 or 2 pulse calibration setting. A little jumpiness at idle is considered normal in this case due to the low frequency signal generated by this ignition signal type at idle. A fluctuation of this type at low engine speeds is a trade off for an extremely quick and smooth reaction at higher engine RPM (where it really counts!) on these types of ignitions. 2.) If the tachometer is wildly erratic or jumpy all over the scale, it could be due to in-correct installation or because you are running a Magneto type distributor. If you are running a Magneto, you MUST make sure that you are using suppression core spark plug wires. A classic symptom of using solid core wires with a Magneto is a jumpy, mis-reading, or erratic pointer. This is especially evident when revving the engine or placing it under load. Good quality suppression core plug wires will usually help or solve the problem without a negative effect on ignition system performance. My Tach Jumps to Shift Light RPM and Does Not Move With Engine Running? 1.) Autogage series tachometers exhibit this behavior when the signal wire (Green) is connected to an improper source, or when it does not recognize the tachometer signal it has been connected to. Be sure to check out our Installation Information section to verify that you are connected to the proper location. 2.) This symptom also occurs when using a tachometer signal generated by a factory PCM or ECU that uses a 5 volt square wave instead of a 12 volt square wave. If this is the case, it may require a tachometer adapter to make your Autogage tachometer operate with your computer, or you may upgrade to an Auto Meter tachometer. Again, make sure you are connected to the proper wire and location at the computer first. My Engine is Running, But My Tachometer Sits at Zero and Doesn't Register Any RPM? Listed below are several common solutions to this issue: 1.) Check connections related to the signal wire (Green wire in most cases). Is the Green wire connected to the proper location (i.e. the negative side of the coil, or tachometer output from an after market ignition)? 2.) Check power to the Red wire. It should register 12 volts (or higher) when checked with a voltmeter with your key on and with engine running. If not, check connections and try a different power source. 3.) Check power to your Black ground wire. If the illumination light also does not function, then the ground is a very likely candidate. To check your ground with a voltmeter, connect the positive of the meter to a known good power source then hook the negative of your meter to the black wire. You should get a reading, of 12 volts or higher. If not, check connections and try a different ground source. Can my tachometer be converted to work with magneto ignitions? In most cases, yes, your tachometer can be converted to magneto or Super Magneto or vice-versa. Our magneto signal convertor however, (model 9118) will allow you to use most standard/electronic ignition tachometers on most internal and external coil magnetos. Check with us for specific models that can be modified. For proper operation it is imparitive that suppression core ignition wires be used. Solid core wires produce excessive RF noise which can affect the tachometer reading Do any cars require special tach calibration? In some cases with newer vehicles such as Dodge and Ford V-10's, tachometers will have to be specially calibrated at an additional charge. Please call 7 Days a Week 1-877-216-5446 or email cs@realtruck.com 'ALL Dodge V-10 motors and Vipers (Need to be set for 2.5 and 5 pulse per rev, and also 5-volt square wave) ALL Ford V-10 motors in either the trucks or vans up to '98(Need to be set for 2.5 and 5 pulse per rev) Any vehicle that obtains a tach signal from the computer may possibly need to be recalibrated due to the 5V square wave that the computer produces. Always try the tach first before sending in for calibration, most times it works fine as is. Any odd numbered cylinder vehicles such as 3, 5, etc. What do radio interference, inductive crossfire, and government regulation have to do with my Auto Meter tachometer? The answer is PLENTY! Radio frequency interference (RF Interference) produces a false triggering effect on crank trigger and electronic distributor ignitions. Because your Auto Meter electronic tachometer counts the number of times you ignition fires in a crankshaft revolution, additional random, false triggering causes erratic and inaccurate tach movement. Auto Meter tachs are internally protected with circuits that filter out a majority of the "noise associated with racing conditions. When this noise reaches a high level, however, the tach sees it as legitimate ignition firing and responds accordingly. Your car does not always demand full capacity of the ignition system. If radio interference is present, it will most likely show up at the top end, in top gear where the most horsepower and high ignition load are present. Memory tachs will give indication of this condition with abnormally high memory readouts as well. Mountable in every conceivable position, the versatility and durability of Autometers Pedestal Mount tachometers have made them a race proven favorite for over 30 years. If you have questions or need assistance please call Monday to Saturday 1-877-216-5446 or email cs@realtruck.com
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