Home > Interior Accessories > Gauges & Accessories > Autometer Ultra-Lite Series Full Sweep Electric Gauges
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Manufacturer Information View all Autometer Products Inc products View available Products for this Product Line |
Autometer Ultra-Lite Full Sweep electric gauges are designed for the professional racer. When split second counts and you only have a fraction of that time to monitor your instruments the 270 degree dial face provides the ultimate in clear visibility when you need it most. Autometer Ultra-Lite Full Sweep Electric Gauges have the finest in high-end sending units for unsurpassed accuracy and dependability. They stand up to the pressure and you stay cool. Most gauges come with all mounting hardware needed for mounting, see notes section for details. Ultra Lite gauges are the hottest instruments in professional motorsports today. A satin anodized aluminum finish and bright red pointers bring a new aspect of style to conventional performance interiors.
- 11 Different High Performance Gauges: for monitoring almost every critical engine area. Gauges Available Include: Air Fuel Ratio, Boost/ Vacuum with Peak Memory and Warning, Brake Pressure, Fuel Pressure (3 Standard Ranges and 1 Metric), Intake Temperature (Single and Two Channel options), Nitrous Pressure, Oil Pressure, Oil Temperature, Pyrometer (3 Standard Ranges and 1 Metric), Vacuum, and Water Temperature
- 2 Sizes of Gauges: 2 1/16" and 2 5/8"
- Unique Micro-stepping Technology: Uses a rugged microprocessor for a smooth pointer movement in selected full sweep gauges
- Most gauges come with all hardware need for mounting. See order notes section for further details
- 270 Degree Viewable Dial Face: provides the ultimate in clear visibility when you need it most
- Ultra-Lite Series Gauges have the finest in high-end sending units for unsurpassed accuracy and dependability.
| Autometer Ultra-Lite Series Full Sweep Electric Gauges | |
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4343 Pyrometer 2 1/16" Pyrometer gauge with a range of 0-1600 Degrees Fahrenheit DOES NOT INCLUDE PROBE |
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4344 Pyrometer 2 1/16" Pyrometer Kit Gauge with a range of 0-1600 Degrees Fahrenheit includes Type K Thermocouple |
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4344-M Pyrometer Metric 2 1/16" Pyrometer Metric Gauge with a range of 0-900 Degrees Celsius |
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4345 Pyrometer 2 1/16" Pyrometer gauge with a range of 0-2000 Degrees Fahrenheit |
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4353 Oil Pressure 2 1/16" Oil Pressure gauge with a range of 0-100 PSI |
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4356 Oil Temp 2 1/16" Oil Temp gauge with a range of 100-340 Degrees Fahrenheit |
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4360 Fuel Pressure 2 1/16" Fuel Pressure gauge with a range of 0-30 PSI |
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4361 Fuel Pressure 2 1/16" Fuel Pressure gauge with a range of 0-15 PSI |
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4363 Fuel Pressure 2 1/16" Fuel Pressure gauge with a range of 0-30 PSI |
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4363-M Fuel Pressure Metric 2 1/16" Fuel Pressure Metric gauge with a range of 0-7 Bar |
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4372 Intake Temp Single Channel 2 1/16" Intake Temp Single Channel gauge with a range of 30-300 Degrees Fahrenheit |
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4374 Nitrous Pressure 2 1/16" Nitrous Pressure gauge with a range of 0-1600 PSI |
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4375 Air Fuel Ratio 2 1/16" Air Fuel Ratio gauge with a range of Lean-Rich |
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4377 Boost/ Vacuum Boost/ Vacuum gauge with Peak Memory and Warning and a range of 30 In Hg/ 15 PSI |
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4443 Pyrometer 2 5/8" Pyrometer gauge with a range of 0-1600 Degrees Fahrenheit DOES NOT INCLUDE PROBE |
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4453 Oil Pressure 2 5/8" Oil Pressure gauge with a range of 0-100 PSI |
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4456 Oil Temp 2 5/8" Oil Temp gauge with a range of 100-340 Degrees Fahrenheit |
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4461 Fuel Pressure 2 5/8" Fuel Pressure gauge with a range of 0-15 PSI |
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4463 Fuel Pressure 2 5/8" Fuel Pressure gauge with a range of 0-30 PSI |
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4467 Brake Pressure 2 5/8" Brake Pressure gauge with a range of 0-1600 PSI |
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4469 Water Temp 2 5/8" Water Temp gauge with a range of 60-120 Degrees Fahrenheit |
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4471 Vacuum 2 5/8" Vacuum gauge with a range of 30 In. Hg |
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4474 Nitrous Pressure 2 5/8" Nitrous Pressure gauge with a range of 0-1600 PSI |
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4477 Boost/ Vacuum 2 5/8" Boost/ Vacuum gauge with Peak Memory and Warning with a range of 30 In Hg/ 15 PSI |
What Are These Colored Wires On My New Design Pyrometer For?
• Red = key on power supply
• Black = common chassis ground
• Yellow sheathed Red & Yellow = Type K Thermocouple wires connecting probe to gauge
What Are These Colored Wires On My Full Sweep Electric Pressure Gauge For?
• Red = key on power supply
• Black = common chassis ground
• White (Cobalt, C2, Lunar, & NV series only) = dash lighting power
• Gray, Purple, & Black = communication between sender and gauge
Why does my fuel level gauge bounce around when I am driving?
If your fuel level gauge stays still when the car is still, the problem is due to sloshing fuel in the tank. When the vehicle is in motion, fuel is allowed to move back and forth and move, or “slosh” around. Many late model tanks have internal baffling and some fuel cells use a foam insert that help keep fuel from moving around too much. When the fuel is moving around, it is moving the float up and down on the sender, which causes the gauge to respond by moving back and forth. Some OEM’s have also used what is called “anti-slosh modules” to battle this problem in production vehicles. Unfortunately, we know of no after market anti-slosh module to operate with an after market fuel level gauge. Some amount of slosh or movement is normal with a non-baffled or a non-foam filled tank.
What Are These Colored Wires On My Old Design (w/ black box) Full Sweep Electric Gauges For?
• Brown, Green, & Red = used for communication between the gauge and its matching black interface box.
*Must have black interface box to operate.
Why don't the pressure and temp gauges fit my specific vehicle?
The main reason is every vehicle on the road today has different locations for the pressure and coolant temp sensors, not to mention thread sizes. Using oil pressure as an example, it is recommended that a tee fitting be used so you can add the new Auto Meter sender while retaining the OE sender. Please see Fittings under the Accessories section to see a selection of what we have available to help you install your gauges in your vehicle. Additionally you may be able to make a trip to your local plumbing store, or, you may need an additional metric adapter, from a performance fittings supplier (especially for late model vehicles and imports).
For the electric water temp gauges, the temp sender should be located either in the intake manifold or the cylinder head; this is not an instance where a tee fitting can be used, as coolant will not circulate past the sender. Please see our radiator and heater hose adapters under the Accessories section as another available option for mounting your gauge's coolant temperature sender.
When it comes to mounting the sender for either a trans temp or oil temp gauge, we recommend you use a weld in bung, available separately for MECHANICAL gauges as model #2261, or for ELECTRIC gauges as #2260. The reasoning for this is simple; when the bung is mounted so it will be continuously submerged in fluid, it will give the most accurate readings.
Which is better for monitoring a vehicle's electrical system - a Voltmeter or an Ammeter?
A voltmeter, by far.The voltmeter directly measures the result of charging-system performance. With normal alternator/voltage-regulator function, battery voltage is maintained at 14.0 to 14.5 volts-and this is reported directly by the voltmeter. In the event of alternator-system failure, voltage will be low and continue to drop as the battery discharges. In the event of an "overcharge" condition, the voltmeter will climb above its normal zone. In summary, there is no chance for misinterpreting a voltmeter's readings as can happen with an ammeter. Voltmeter vs. Ammeter? Auto Meter offers both, but for most applications a voltmeter yields a safer installation while providing more useful information on charging-system conditions.
Will Auto Meter gauges fit into my stock dash to replace the OEM gauges?
Auto Meter instruments are not designed to be exact replacements for original gauges, they are intended to improve a stock dash. The Specifications page displays illustrations with dimensions of all the instruments we offer. The custom car or truck builder may be able to mount some instruments directly into the dash, however they will most likely need to modify or build a completely new dashboard. Also visit the Auto Meter Gauge Works sections for more mounting options.
Do I need a sender for my electrical gauge?
Electrical temperature and pressure gauges require the use of a sender matched for the type of gauge in use; the stock sender will only work with the stock gauges. Auto Meter gauges are designed to work with the Auto Meter sender that is included with the gauge.
What if Auto Meter does not offer a fuel level gauge to work with my stock sender?
Auto Meter offers a universal sender under model number 3262. It operates from 240 ohms at empty and 33 ohms at full. It is adjustable from 5” to 24” tank depths. It uses a 5 bolt mounting flange. In most cases, it may be necessary to cut a new hole in the top of the tank to use this sender. It does not replace spin lock or ring type factory sending units. Another option is if you are using the Cobalt, C2, Ultra Lite, Phantom, or Sport Comp series full sweep programmable fuel level gauges. (not the standard short sweep version). The full sweep programmable unit may be custom calibrated to operate with nearly any variable resistance to ground sender that has a range between 0 and 270 ohms. The C2 and Cobalt series are already available. The Ultra Lite, Sport Comp, and Phantom series should be released by the beginning of ’06.
What Are These Colored Wires On My Full Sweep Electric Temperature Gauge For?
• Red = key on power supply
• Black = common chassis ground
• White (Cobalt, C2, Lunar, & NV series only) = dash lighting power
• Gray and Purple = communication between sender and gauge
What Are These Colored Wires On My Full Sweep Electric Temperature Gauge For?
• Red = key on power supply
• Black = common chassis ground
• White (Cobalt, C2, Lunar, & NV series only) = dash lighting power
• Gray and Purple = communication between sender and gauge
What Are These Colored Wires On My Full Sweep Electric Boost/Vac Gauge For?
• Red = key on power supply. *Must stay powered on during cranking of starter. Failure to do so may cause mis-calibration of gauge
• Black = common chassis ground
• White (Cobalt, C2, Lunar, & NV series only) = dash lighting power
• Gray, Purple, & Black = communication between sender and gauge
Do I Need an Intake Temp Gauge?
If you have a supercharger or a turbocharger, you know how important it is to monitor the air that is being compressed and forced into the engine. It is vital to keep the temps low for maximum power and efficiency of the 'charger and the engine. This is where the gauge comes into play. You can use the gauge and its probe(s) to monitor the temps of the air going into or out of the intercooler, depending on which setup you go with. With a single channel (one probe) gauge setup, you can see what the temp of the air going into the intercooler is, or you can see what it is after the intercooler, to check and make sure its at an acceptable level.
However, we offer a dual channel gauge as well, so that you can check the temps going into and coming out of the intercooler for tuning purposes. The dual channel unit has a recall feature as well, so that you can keep tabs on how cool things really were during that last blazing pass down the track. Mounting the probes is usually as simple as plumbing a few holes into the ductwork leading into and coming out of the intercooler.
• Red = key on power supply
• Black = common chassis ground
• Yellow sheathed Red & Yellow = Type K Thermocouple wires connecting probe to gauge
What Are These Colored Wires On My Full Sweep Electric Pressure Gauge For?
• Red = key on power supply
• Black = common chassis ground
• White (Cobalt, C2, Lunar, & NV series only) = dash lighting power
• Gray, Purple, & Black = communication between sender and gauge
Why does my fuel level gauge bounce around when I am driving?
If your fuel level gauge stays still when the car is still, the problem is due to sloshing fuel in the tank. When the vehicle is in motion, fuel is allowed to move back and forth and move, or “slosh” around. Many late model tanks have internal baffling and some fuel cells use a foam insert that help keep fuel from moving around too much. When the fuel is moving around, it is moving the float up and down on the sender, which causes the gauge to respond by moving back and forth. Some OEM’s have also used what is called “anti-slosh modules” to battle this problem in production vehicles. Unfortunately, we know of no after market anti-slosh module to operate with an after market fuel level gauge. Some amount of slosh or movement is normal with a non-baffled or a non-foam filled tank.
What Are These Colored Wires On My Old Design (w/ black box) Full Sweep Electric Gauges For?
• Brown, Green, & Red = used for communication between the gauge and its matching black interface box.
*Must have black interface box to operate.
Why don't the pressure and temp gauges fit my specific vehicle?
The main reason is every vehicle on the road today has different locations for the pressure and coolant temp sensors, not to mention thread sizes. Using oil pressure as an example, it is recommended that a tee fitting be used so you can add the new Auto Meter sender while retaining the OE sender. Please see Fittings under the Accessories section to see a selection of what we have available to help you install your gauges in your vehicle. Additionally you may be able to make a trip to your local plumbing store, or, you may need an additional metric adapter, from a performance fittings supplier (especially for late model vehicles and imports).
For the electric water temp gauges, the temp sender should be located either in the intake manifold or the cylinder head; this is not an instance where a tee fitting can be used, as coolant will not circulate past the sender. Please see our radiator and heater hose adapters under the Accessories section as another available option for mounting your gauge's coolant temperature sender.
When it comes to mounting the sender for either a trans temp or oil temp gauge, we recommend you use a weld in bung, available separately for MECHANICAL gauges as model #2261, or for ELECTRIC gauges as #2260. The reasoning for this is simple; when the bung is mounted so it will be continuously submerged in fluid, it will give the most accurate readings.
Which is better for monitoring a vehicle's electrical system - a Voltmeter or an Ammeter?
A voltmeter, by far.The voltmeter directly measures the result of charging-system performance. With normal alternator/voltage-regulator function, battery voltage is maintained at 14.0 to 14.5 volts-and this is reported directly by the voltmeter. In the event of alternator-system failure, voltage will be low and continue to drop as the battery discharges. In the event of an "overcharge" condition, the voltmeter will climb above its normal zone. In summary, there is no chance for misinterpreting a voltmeter's readings as can happen with an ammeter. Voltmeter vs. Ammeter? Auto Meter offers both, but for most applications a voltmeter yields a safer installation while providing more useful information on charging-system conditions.
Will Auto Meter gauges fit into my stock dash to replace the OEM gauges?
Auto Meter instruments are not designed to be exact replacements for original gauges, they are intended to improve a stock dash. The Specifications page displays illustrations with dimensions of all the instruments we offer. The custom car or truck builder may be able to mount some instruments directly into the dash, however they will most likely need to modify or build a completely new dashboard. Also visit the Auto Meter Gauge Works sections for more mounting options.
Do I need a sender for my electrical gauge?
Electrical temperature and pressure gauges require the use of a sender matched for the type of gauge in use; the stock sender will only work with the stock gauges. Auto Meter gauges are designed to work with the Auto Meter sender that is included with the gauge.
What if Auto Meter does not offer a fuel level gauge to work with my stock sender?
Auto Meter offers a universal sender under model number 3262. It operates from 240 ohms at empty and 33 ohms at full. It is adjustable from 5” to 24” tank depths. It uses a 5 bolt mounting flange. In most cases, it may be necessary to cut a new hole in the top of the tank to use this sender. It does not replace spin lock or ring type factory sending units. Another option is if you are using the Cobalt, C2, Ultra Lite, Phantom, or Sport Comp series full sweep programmable fuel level gauges. (not the standard short sweep version). The full sweep programmable unit may be custom calibrated to operate with nearly any variable resistance to ground sender that has a range between 0 and 270 ohms. The C2 and Cobalt series are already available. The Ultra Lite, Sport Comp, and Phantom series should be released by the beginning of ’06.
What Are These Colored Wires On My Full Sweep Electric Temperature Gauge For?
• Red = key on power supply
• Black = common chassis ground
• White (Cobalt, C2, Lunar, & NV series only) = dash lighting power
• Gray and Purple = communication between sender and gauge
What Are These Colored Wires On My Full Sweep Electric Temperature Gauge For?
• Red = key on power supply
• Black = common chassis ground
• White (Cobalt, C2, Lunar, & NV series only) = dash lighting power
• Gray and Purple = communication between sender and gauge
What Are These Colored Wires On My Full Sweep Electric Boost/Vac Gauge For?
• Red = key on power supply. *Must stay powered on during cranking of starter. Failure to do so may cause mis-calibration of gauge
• Black = common chassis ground
• White (Cobalt, C2, Lunar, & NV series only) = dash lighting power
• Gray, Purple, & Black = communication between sender and gauge
Do I Need an Intake Temp Gauge?
If you have a supercharger or a turbocharger, you know how important it is to monitor the air that is being compressed and forced into the engine. It is vital to keep the temps low for maximum power and efficiency of the 'charger and the engine. This is where the gauge comes into play. You can use the gauge and its probe(s) to monitor the temps of the air going into or out of the intercooler, depending on which setup you go with. With a single channel (one probe) gauge setup, you can see what the temp of the air going into the intercooler is, or you can see what it is after the intercooler, to check and make sure its at an acceptable level.
However, we offer a dual channel gauge as well, so that you can check the temps going into and coming out of the intercooler for tuning purposes. The dual channel unit has a recall feature as well, so that you can keep tabs on how cool things really were during that last blazing pass down the track. Mounting the probes is usually as simple as plumbing a few holes into the ductwork leading into and coming out of the intercooler.
